Madra Lord's New Hat

Madra Lord

Miss Lord tops her sharply tailored 1940's ensemble with a spicy new hat to flatter even the most discriminating diva. Inspired by an illustration from a German pattern book, the small brimmed, felt hat features a high open crown to accommodate a marvelous feather spray. Silk tweed jerkin, hat, and color-blocked suede guantlet gloves are from The Couture Touch. Pinstriped shirt is from Robert Tonner's Brenda Starr Collection. Black skirt is from Sandra Stillwell, and the clutch is from Madame Alexander. The restyled "Siren in the Night" Madra Lord, enhanced with an Integrity articulated body, is from Ashton Drake.

Illustration from "Der Goldene Schnitt",
 1940/41.

Whimsical Christmas Hats

Tis the season for accessorizing your wardrobe with fun and whimsical hats. Here are a few gems sure to put a smile on even a tempestuous miniature Hollywood diva's face.

An unusual shaped wool knitted hat with matching sweater perfect for Holiday outdoor fun.
Bestway knitted pattern photo courtesy fab40s.co.uk

A festive snowflake cocktail hat courtesy wanelo.com

A fabulous red and green jersey turban, circa 1942.
Photo courtesy Baubles by Betty on Pinterest.

Vintage Pepsi ad courtesy retrorover-vintagedogs.blogspot.com

This marvelous felt mistletoe veiled Christmas hat is by Tanith Rowan Designs.

Monolithic's diva extraordinaire Miss Madra Lord poses for a studio publicity photo
wearing a delightful Christmas hat by The Couture Touch.

Have a Merry Christmas!

1940's Style Sculptural Wool Felt Hat for Gene Marshall

An easy DIY project.

Gene Marshall

Madra Lord

These sculptural winged toppers are fashioned from two simple geometric shapes: a circle and a triangle. They are made from wool felt, one of the most commonly used material in the millinery industry. Wool felt can be blocked, steamed, and stretched in any direction; and it retains it's shape beautifully. 

Here's what you will need:

Wool felt  [See the end of this tutorial for resources]

Scissors

Sewing needle and matching thread

Dressmaker chalk or other marking tool

Emery board

Ruler or tape measure

A glass or other round object for tracing a circle

Assorted trims

Glue (optional)

For the base of the hat, trace a 2 1/2" diameter circle on wool felt and cut out. Cut out a 1/2" wedge as shown. The decorative wings are formed from a 3" triangle. To give the wings a sculptural look, cut along the cutting lines as shown above. To mark the curve, you can either eye-ball it or measure in approximately 5/8 - 3/4" on the diagonal side of the triangle. Draw the curve cutting line with a marking tool. Trim off the excess felt. Make a cut to the point of the triangle leaving 1/4". Soften all cut edges of the felt by lightly sanding them with the finer side of an emery board. Note: If desired, you can adjust the size of your hat depending on the hairstyle or the size of the doll.

Overlap the circle 1/4" and off set the edge 1/8 - 1/4" as indicated by the arrow above. Hand stitch in place. This creates a little bump in the center of the circle which helps shape the base of the hat.  For the wings, twist the triangle shape 3 times and tack in the middle with a needle and thread to secure.

Place the wings over the overlapped portion of the circle and tack in place. Now you can decorate your hat as desired. For Gene's hat, I cut a second pair of wings from charcoal felt for contrast. The 1/2" wedge cut out from the circle was layered on top and beading was added. Madra's hat is decorated with feathers, berries, and beading. The hats are attached to the hairdo with hatpins. You can make your own decorative hatpins using corsage pins or extra-long dressmaker pins and add various beads.

Here is an easy, whimsical cocktail hat variation for Miss Marshall:

Gene Marshall

Cut out a 2 1/2" diameter circle in wool felt. Cut out a 1/2" wedge. Fold up one side of the circle keeping the outer edge even as shown in fig.1. Make a tiny snip with scissors as indicated by the arrow. 

Pull the opposite side of the circle through the slit. This will provide shaping for your hat. Fig. 2 shows the top of the hat and fig.3 the underside. The secret is not to cut the slit too long. You will want the felt to fold as shown above. Decorate your hat as desired.

Miss Gene Marshall

Resources and Credits:

Wool felt is available from Edinburgh Imports.com  They offer an excellent weight felt for doll hats and it comes in a wide assortment of yummy colors. The felt can be purchased by the yard or by the piece. The piece size is 9 x 11 inches. Wool felt may also be available at some fabric and craft stores such as JoAnn Fabrics or Hobby Lobby. Be sure you purchase wool felt, not the synthetic craft felt.

Symphony in G Gene Marshall and Black Widow Madra Lord are from Ashton Drake.
Cocoa Crisp Gene Marshall is from Integrity.
White Orchid Gene Marshall is from JamieShow.

Felt Follies

Ivy Jordan

A witty and daring hat adds spice to a tailored ensemble. Actress turned director, Ivy Jordan, looks fashionably chic in a simply divine pumpkin felt hat worn with a tweed plastron and matching guantlet gloves, all from The Couture Touch. Black dress is from Madra Lord's "Dark Desire" costume by Ashton Drake.

A quartet of fabulous late 1930's, early 40's felt hats courtesy
justskirtsanddresses.blogspot.com

An unusual shaped hat with yummy trim, probably late 1930's.

Gene Marshall

Wine felt is molded and shaped into a delightful rose hat, accented with a band of black straw and miniature flowers. Worn with a great suit and fabulous fur, Miss Marshall is ready for late-afternoon cocktails with friends. Jacket and gloves are from Ashton Drake, fur and necklace is from miniature furrier PD Root.

Madra Lord

Miss Lord wears a molded green felt Art Deco inspired hat with marvelous wings and feather detailing for height. The charcoal grey dyed "Croquet, Anyone?" jacket/dress ensemble is from Ashton Drake. Fur from Integrity.


Credits:
Ivy "Vee J." Jordan and Cocoa Crisp Gene Marshall are from Integrity.
"Azure Elegance" Madra Lord is from Ashton Drake.
All OOAK wool felt hats are from The Couture Touch.

Imaginative Felts

"A hat must be a creation of realities and dreams and that it should be remembered with pleasure by those who see it."   Aage Thaarup's Theory of Millinery

Women's Fashion 1930 - 1939
Illustration courtesy allposters.com

The unusual shaped and often whimsical quality of women's hats during the late 1930's became a popular design feature of millinery during this turbulent time period. Italian born French designer Elsa Schiaparelli was most notably associated with the Surrealist Movement that sought to "liberate the imagination". She was a master at the technique of manipulating felt and other materials into delightfully stylish and sophisticated hats with a touch of humor.

Elsa Schiaparelli's "Hurricane Hat" from 1936.
Illustrated for Vogue by Eric. Photo courtesy antiquetrader.com

Miss Madra Lord

An asymmetric, rich forest green, wool felt hat with feather and beading detail is tailor made for Monolithic Studios' star Madra Lord by the milliners at The Couture Touch. Miss Lord's jacket, blouse, and gloves are from Ashton Drake, handbag from PD Root, and the ooak cigarette holder is from Mystyna. The luscious mink cape is from miniature furrier Dimitha. Dream Sequence Madra Lord is from Integrity.

Miss Gene Marshall

Gene Marshall captivates her fans in a chic, royal blue, wool felt, Deco-inspired hat from The Couture Touch. Miss Marshall knows the importance of choosing the right hat for her outfit. Fur-collared jacket and matching muff are from D.A.E. Originals' "Business Call" suit ensemble. Embroidered gloves are from Ashton Drake. Blue Belle Gene Marshall, enhanced with an articulated body from Integrity, is from Ashton Drake.

Not your typical felts. Intriguing new hats for 1939. Left: a cocoa-brown, forward-jutting beret from Schiaparelli.
Photo courtesy justskirtsanddresses.blogspot.com

Whimsical felt hat from Caroline Reboux, 1938.
Photo courtesy hprints.com

"In difficult times fashion is always outrageous."    Elsa Schiaparelli

Renoir Hat

Actress Ina Claire in a hat that Renoir might have put in one of his sunny canvases. A light green rough straw, crowned with huge roses and a lace veil. From Bergdorf Goodman. Illustration by Eric for Vogue 1941.

Actress Madra Lord is picture perfect in a luscious cocktail suit topped with a delightful floral hat from The Couture Touch. "City Sleeker" suit ensemble is from Integrity. Deep Rose Madra Lord is from Integrity's Stepping High Collection.

Decorating Straw Hats for Gene Marshall & Madra Lord

Photo courtesy chronicallyvintage.com

Trimming a straw hat can be as simple as some ribbon and flowers, or as elaborate as you like including feathers, veiling, buttons, bows, birds, leaves, and fruit. Straw can even be dyed, painted, embroidered or appliqued. With a little imagination, a basic straw hat can easily be transformed into a chic and sophisticated topper.

Here's an easy DIY project to take your favorite miniature diva from Spring to Summer to Fall. Straw doll hats can be purchased at your local craft store, or you can utilize straw hats you already own. For this tutorial, I used hats from some of my Fashion Royalty, Barbie, and other 1/6 scale dolls. The scale works perfectly for Miss Marshall's (and Miss Lord's) vintage-inspired hats.

From left to right:  An unidentified 1/6 scale straw hat, a red straw hat from a small antique reproduction doll, and the hat from Mattel's "Country Bound" Silkstone Barbie ensemble. All of the original trim has been removed. In addition to your hat, you will need scissors, needle and thread and/or glue (I like Fabri-Tac by Beacon Adhesives), assorted ribbons and trims.

Gene Marshall

With the drama of pairing black with natural straw, the hat from Barbie's "Country Bound" fashion takes a detour to city chic. Double-Fold Bias Tape was used to trim the hat. A tiny black suede bow finishes the back. The trim was applied using a needle and matching thread or you could use glue. Miss Marshall added a black jersey bandeau to wear underneath the hat. Pin-striped suit is from Robert Tonner's Brenda Starr Collection, blouse is from Integrity, and gloves are from Ashton Drake.

Gene Marshall

Miss Marshall updates the two-piece jacket and dress ensemble from Ashton Drake's "Sunday Afternoon" with a smart and sassy red straw hat accented with a 5/8" wide navy grosgrain ribbon, navy vintage veiling, and miniature fruit recycled from an old hat. Navy handbag is from Robert Tonner's Brenda Starr Collection.

Madra Lord

The side of the original straw hat now becomes the front of Miss Lord's new, perfectly shaped, 1930's-style topper. The striped band was made by applying two widths of ribbon recycled from Ashton Drake's ribbon-tie shoes to a 3/8" wide black grosgrain ribbon. For the custom band, apply a thin line of Fabri-Tac glue to the grosgrain ribbon using a straight pin. Place the narrow ribbon on top of your glue line and smooth it with your finger. For a secure bond, cover with a stack of books for approximately 24 hours. The trim was attached to the hat with needle and matching thread, and accented with a few beads. OOAK suit and gauntlet gloves are from The Couture Touch, scarf is from Mattel, handbag is from Ashton Drake.

Need more inspiration? Here are a few more vintage hats from around the web.

Lamp shade style hat with florals encircling the crown.
Photo courtesy melamela.co.uk

At first glance, I thought this might be a bias-strip of floral fabric.
At closer look, it's flowers and leaves covering the entire brim.
Fabric ruched and tacked to the brim might be interesting.

A unique treatment of ribbon. Circa 1940's. Photo courtesy Polyvore.

Interesting placement of the green velvet ribbon. Photo courtesy antiquedress.com

Fabulous embroidered straw hat courtesy graciousgood.wordpress.com
You could also use ready-made appliques, or paint your own design with fabric paint.

Credits and Resources:

For resources and detailed directions on binding the edge of a hat with bias binding, CLICK HERE.

"Blue Fox" Gene Marshall is from Ashton Drake.
"C'est Moi" Madra Lord is from Integrity.
"Symphony in G" Gene Marshall, enhanced with an Integrity articulated body, is from Ashton Drake.

Upcycling Hats for Gene Marshall and Madra Lord

From home decor to jewelry to clothing, upcycling is a hot trend today. The process of taking an old piece and updating it is certainly not new. Because of wartime supply shortages, women of the 1940's were encouraged to recycle items in their wardrobe. "Make Do and Mend for Victory" was the motto of the day.

Hats were a favorite item to renovate. You can give a tired, old hat a new lease on life by simply changing the trimming or reshaping it into a new style. So when your miniature diva is in need of a new chapeau, consider taking a hat she already owns and upcycle it into a brand new one.

The "fur" hat from Ashton Drake's "Goodbye New York" suit ensemble becomes a chic cocktail hat with a nod to the whimsical style of Balenciaga. The original "fur" trim was replaced with a single red rose and feather spray. Suit is from The Couture Touch, gloves are from Robert Tonner, and handbag is from Ashton Drake. "Cocoa Crisp" Gene Marshall is from Integrity.

The black felt hat from Ashton Drake's "Doing Her Part" suit ensemble begs to be dressed up. The original satin ribbon band was replaced with a black velvet one and feathers accent this smart topper. OOAK suit, scarf, and gloves are from The Couture Touch, fur is from miniature furrier PD Root, and handbag is from Ashton Drake. "C'est Moi" Madra Lord is from Integrity.

The straw hat from JamieShow's "White Orchid" Gene Marshall is reshaped into a dramatic tilt taking it from casual to daytime chic. A black bow and jersey bandeau accents this stylish look. Dress and gloves are from Ashton Drake, shrug is from Robert Tonner, ooak necklace and bracelet are from StrayCat, and purse is from PD Root. "Symphony in G" Gene Marshall, enhanced with an Integrity articulated body, is from Ashton Drake.

Reshaping Miss Marshall's Straw Hat

Photo courtesy JamieShow

The hat from "White Orchid" Gene Marshall is made of pliable straw and was easy to reshape. As you will see in the following photos, the top of the original hat will become the underside of the new style. To begin, remove the original hatband.

Using my thumb, I gently pressed on one side of the crown to form a dent as shown in the above photo. The arrow indicates the new location of the back of the hat. The original red hatband left a slight mark on the straw so I covered it with a handmade paper label with the head-size. These labels were often found in vintage hats of the era. Once you are satisfied with the shape, flip your hat over. In the next two photos, you can see the finished shaping of the hat. All that is left to do is to apply the trimming. I used a pre-made bow that I recycled from another item.

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