Asian-Inspired Spring Hat for Gene Marshall & Friends

An Easy DIY Project.

Pearls and Pink Ivy Jordan

The Asian conical or "coolie" style hat is simple to make and oh so chic! This versatile topper is the perfect complement for dresses and suits, as well as casual and beach wear. Here's what you will need:

5 inch square lightweight fashion fabric
5 inch square lining fabric
5 inch square buckram
Circle template (For this tutorial, I used a Gene Marshall stand from Integrity)
Marking tool
Scissors
Straight pins
Sewing needle
Thread to match fabric
Double Fold Bias Tape
Tape measure
Assorted trims (millinery florals, pre-made bows, feathers, etc)
Glue to attach trims (I like Fabri-Tac by Beacon Adhesives)

fig.1 - Cut one circle each of fashion fabric, lining fabric, and buckram using your circle template. Cut a slit to the center of the circle in the buckram piece only as shown above.

fig.2 - Place the fashion fabric over the buckram with the outer edges aligned and pin. To clean finish the back slit, smooth the fabric over one side of the cut edge of the buckram as shown above and overlap 1-5/8 inches. Secure with a pin.

fig.3 - With matching thread, stab stitch along the back seam close to the edge and going all the way through to the underside catching the buckram to secure. Baste close to the edge of the circle. The stitches will be covered with the bias tape.

fig.4 - Insert the lining to the underside of the hat and overlap to fit, keeping edges aligned. Baste close to the edge as shown above.

fig.5 - Apply bias tape as shown and slip stitch in place. For a neat finish at the back seam, fold ends of bias tape under 1/4". Turn the hat over and repeat. You are now ready to embellish your hat as desired.

Here are two more variations.....

Color Deal Ivy Jordan

Miss Jordan wears a navy and white cotton gingham conical hat edged with navy double fold bias tape, accented with a second row of the bias tape and two small flowers.  Hat and matching gloves are from The Couture Touch. Coral jewelry is from D.A.E. Originals, and the handbag is from Robert Tonner's Brenda Starr Collection. Ladies Who Launch 2-piece ensemble is from Integrity.

Caribbean Kiss Gene Marshall

Miss Marshall goes for drama in a conical hat of Aida cloth typically used for cross-stitch embroidery. The binding was made from plaid flannel using a bias tape maker. The crown is embellished with a circle of green velvet wired trim accented with floral trim and millinery leaves. Hat, dress and necklace are from The Couture Touch, gloves are from Ashton Drake. Fur muff and bracelet are from Integrity.

Need more inspiration?

Actress Gene Price wearing a straw conical hat topped with brightly 
colored nasturtiums, circa 1939.
Photo courtesy 1930's Fashion, The Definitive Sourcebook.

From Australian Woman's Weekly, 1954.
Photo courtesy Tanith Rowan.

Delightful straw topper with black coiled trim.

For more on this delightful Asian-inspired hat style, click HERE.

Photo Credits:

Pearls and Pink Ivy Jordan and Color Deal Ivy Jordan are from Integrity.
Pearls and Pink Ivy wears an OOAK ensemble from The Couture Touch.
Caribbean Kiss Gene Marshall is from Ashton Drake.